Cosmo Singapore April issue on the stands now! [yes, you see the return of the other page because it's a scan. sigh]

photography: Micky Wong
styling: Janice Pidduck
hair & makeup: Andrea Claire

image source: my behind the scenes Instagramming.

model: Yana K / UpFront Models Singapore

Products I used:

On her skin: Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream, FACEatelier Ultra Foundation
On her gorgeous wolf eyes: Tom Ford
Cheeks: MAC
Lips: NARS Chelsea Girls - love this so much you have no idea.

Update: oh yeah... I did hair too. duh - I've been using Original & Mineral a lot lately. I LOVE them. Original Queenie to humidity proof hairspray and it doesn't smell like Grandma's comb-out!

So I am doing a general sweep across the board but with the latest keywords I saw today: "Beauty Guru Burns Hair" - omg! *rolls eyes*

Guru - A leading authority in a particular field.

Let's reign in this word - shall we?

source

People: She is a poor child (ok - teen - still a child) with a curling iron mishap (not a Guru) - which apparently someone advised her that it's the TRESemme product that caused this damage. Um. No.

When a friend posted the video on my Facebook personal page asking what I thought; this was my answer:

"OMG. 1st - Poor girl! (why would she post it??)
2nd - this is what is wrong with social media - everyone wants to be an expert.
3rd - You should keep the temperature of your tongs to your hair type - her temp was obviously too high
4th - the hair should be around the tongs for an average count of 12 seconds - she had the tongs on that strand for 21 seconds."

and

"I have to say - I felt ill for her when her hair burnt off."

and

"[FYI - I always go by how the hair is feeling when I am curling hair so I just tested the count per curl - yup - 12 seconds but always adjust it for your hair!]"

This middle school girl now has an FB page that of course yahoos are jumping on with insults - which I am sure she is deleting but words hurt people and sure she has a sense of humour to put this out for everyone to see - but let's remember - she's a child. Play nice.

This for me is not about that poor girl - it is that straw.

It's like everyone with a camera phone or web-cam are suddenly experts because they own a brush.

My photographer friends liken this to owners of DSLRs - I prefer to rely on my HTC One S and Instagram.

Not long ago I was at a blogger event here in Singapore where I currently perch. During the event the bloggers in attendance began to scoop up all the display products and drop them in their bags like it was their own personal 5-finger discount. (PS: that's theft)

I. Was. Horrified.

I thought everyone knew that samples were given by the PR companies as they left (um - have you heard the term swag bag?) and the displays are the hard work of the PR companies to make the room look pretty and feature the product.

Another blogger presentation I had gone to, a group of about 10 bloggers showed up in a pack one hour late and if that wasn't enough - they giggled their way through the door.

No apologies. Loudly took  their seats. PR company started the presentation over! From the beginning. Adding on another hour to my morning. I. Was. Horrified.

Many bloggers seem to be thrust into the world of media without the knowledge of how to conduct themselves.

Frankly - life rule of thumb: Mind your P's & Q's.

Now - I am not saying all bloggers are created equal. I am not anti-blogger.

I do know some fabulous bloggers who don't regurgitate presskits and keywords supplied to them by the PR companies but those I find to be writers already.

Many magazine editors advise young hopefuls to start blogs for the experience which allows their work to grow. Why should a YouTube channel be any different?? (but just clear away your knickers and trash from the BG - we don't need to see all your business)

I think beauty blogs are great to have - it can be an outlet. It can be a building block. A stepping stone. Or they can annoy and enrage. We all use them as reference and referrals. But are they experts or beauty editors? Some, yes.

You have to do your research. If your blog is about opinion that's one thing but if it's about teaching - PLEASE learn the subject. So many times I have read or witnessed someone tell 'you' to blow on a makeup brush to get off the extra powder. NO. Don't do that. You are blowing bacteria into your brush and then applying it to your eye. Tsk tsk. Makeup artist hygiene 101.

I've started to turn down blogger invites which means my evenings may free up - but I'm not a blogger. My peers are not bloggers - well that could be argued a tad... My peers are fellow hair & makeup artists, stylists, editors, writers and yes some bloggers.

I can't speak for the events globally but at least here in Singapore there seems to be a two-tier media system  - print media, TV and some more on the porthole side of the Internet and then... [dividing line] || bloggers. Media events here don't tend to open up to hair and makeup artists unless they have a blog... but then we should be attending media events with the editors and writers we work with which equals peers.

A common complaint I hear from hair & makeup peers back home and here in Singapore:  if they want to be invited to beauty events now they need to start a beauty blog - a trick to get their feet in the door of beauty events. WHAT?! Not a long-listed editorial and celebrity resume and a $5,000+++ hair & makeup kit that we constantly reinvest in - not always with discount - WHAT?! {crescendo

Kevyn Aucoin (RIP) was quoted years ago about how he had a label-free kit. Didn't endorse any one line; had a revolving door of products. I can't remember where I saw this but food for thought.

I dropped about $800 euro on Tom Ford Beauty when I was in Paris recently. I've given them credit in my editorials here a) hoping to build a relationship and b) because I truly used the product. I sent the tearsheets over. Aside from an obligatory reply on their end - that's all she wrote. I'd get better love from them if I was a blogger.

The importance of including artists: We suggest things to magazines that we like. We use products on celebrities. We have private clients who want a shopping list of our faves and we may just have a Facebook page for sharing our work and must-haves.

Yes my rant has some slight disconnections here and there.

Recap

Poor baby girl with her hot tongs. I hope you get on Ellen for a new haircut. Rock something asymmetrical!

I don't boycott beauty bloggers or beauty YouTubers and for a little proof - here is a YouTuber who has great hair stuff.

BUT remember: Experts are experts for a reason and we will show you how to avoid burning your hair off. (poor baby girl)

My rant. My blog. But I'm not a blogger. I am a senior hair & makeup artist for 23 years and counting - from Canada living in Singapore

AClaireBeauty.com

Actually Sofia & Johan  / DIVA Models are both Swedish.
The blonde hair, bronzed skin, warmth of the sun made me think of Miami Vice (the TV show with Don Johnson, not the horrible movie) meets Scarface. I kept yelling out 'cocaine!'  - No, I don't do drugs. Yes, I think I'm funny.

Why models need to do yoga.

Products used on Sofia:

Dermalogica (skincare)
FACEatelier (foundation)
MAC Cosmetics (cheeks)
Tom Ford Beauty (eyes)
Benefit Cosmetics (eyes)
Ardell Eyelashes (2 pairs of wispies - one black on brown!)
NARS (lips)

Products used on Johan:

Dermalogica (skincare)
FACEatelier (foundation)
NARS (bronzer)
Laura Mercier (top secret - wink)

Hair products on both:

O&M Original Queenie

Marc Anthony Strictly Curl Lotion (I love this for round brush blowouts too - which I did on Johan.)

Team credits:

photography: Boon Chian

hair & makeup: Andrea Claire

styling: Xindi Siau

image source: me with my HTC ONE S

This is Melissa, Singaporean model/actress represented by Looque in a behind the scenes photo that I just had to share - I mean - look at that lip colour! I'll get there...

On Melissa's already flawless skin:

Skin: Prepped with Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream and IPSA On the Peak Eye Aesthetics - an amazing eye cream (why am I sharing this with the models - note to self: covet)

Foundation:  A combination of Dermalogica's Covertint in Medium with FACEatelier Ultra Foundation #1

Cheeks: Again with a combo, in order of application: MAC Cosmetics Posey Cheekblend Blush , Bobbi Bown Shimmer Brick Bronze in the hollows and Jemma Kidd All Over Dewy Glow in Iced Gold as a highlighter.

Eyes:
based with black|Up Cosmetics Intense Radiance Eye Shadow in ME04 from lid to brow bone and Mono Eye Shadow in MP04 at the top & bottom lash line
Tom Ford Onyx Eye Defining Pencil in the waterline
NARS Hollywoodland soft touch shadow pencil on the inner corner
Revlon Photoready 3D Volume mascara in Blackest Black

Le BIG finish:

Lips: GOSH lipliner in Pink Peony with Tom Ford Flamingo lipstick

The past couple of days I've been shooting with globe-trotting photographer David Dobson - his work is gorgeous AND he's a nice guy. See, fashion isn't just full of bitches... I kid.

Speaking of... 

Here's another behind the scenes I took from our shoot with members of [the] Collective - left to right: Angelique Nicolette Teo, Linda Black and Mohini Sule.

I know - I work with really ugly people. sigh

BRAZIL-BRIDE PARADE

So you are flying off to get hitched at the latest and greatest resort in Bali? Bora Bora? Fiji? Niagara Falls (Canadian side of course)? A hair & makeup artist may not be in your budget to fly to Paradise Island and your options to hire locally may be limited. The cost of being a ladder wielding bride may mean that you are having to DIY your bridal beauty. Here is your makeup how-to from start to finish:

Dermalogica

Step 1 - Skin prep: hopefully you are the glowing bride radiating from within with your love but if your skin is a stress mess - blotchy and broken out calm by exfoliating with raw sugar followed by a calming masque. SPF is your last step before your makeup. To keep your oils at bay on your big day I recommend using an oil-free moisturizer which minimizes shiny skin in photos too. Try Dermalogica's Oil Control Lotion or for normal to dry skin use Skin Smoothing Cream. You can boost your spf coverage by adding in the Solar Defense Booster spf50 to any moisturizer.

Step 2 - Primer: Dermalogica SkinPerfect Primer with its active ingredients it’s the first of its kind to offer a blurred line between skincare and makeup - speaking of blurring... The pearl essence also helps to diffuse fine lines and pigmentation prepping the skin for foundation.

There are other primers on the market that I like such as Laura Mercier Foundation Primers which also come in a variety of choices from matte to radiant, and have travel sizes too to minimize packing space.

Step 3 - Flawless Base: FACEatelier Ultra Foundation is the ultimate second skin foundation. Hyper-pigmented yet breathable leaving your skin smooth and flawless. I have been using foundation virtually exclusively in my work since 2004.

Follow with your concealer as needed - most women I find overuse concealer. Make sure you are lit from the front and not from above when applying your makeup - GREAT lighting is needed for a proper makeup application. My latest concealer fave is Laura Mercier's Undercover Pot which is also great for traveling as it contains a concealer for under the eyes, a camouflage for breakouts and a little setting powder.

You won't see me recommending powders often in foundation nor for setting - powders age you. Who wants that? But for the sake of your wedding makeup after your base is complete powder minimally! I LOVE Alison Raffaele's setting powder - it's the best in the biz as far as I'm concerned - truly for all skin tones and skin types without accentuating fine lines. I've tried the Amazing Cosmetics Setting Powder - that one is ok too.

Eye brighteners are NOT to be mistaken as concealers but often are. Move over Touche Eclat! Tom Ford's Illuminating Highlight Pen is a must! Conceal as (and if) needed and then use an eye brightener to perk up tired eyes. Eye Brighteners are reflective to help diffuse fine lines and tired eyes so over-application can leave with you with white blotches under the eyes with flash photography - yes use this but sparingly.

Step 4 - Blush/Contour/Highlight

You can never go wrong with my blush faves that happen to be the cult faves of many makeup artists and celebs.
From top left: Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick in Bronze on it's own creates a beautiful dewy colour and contour with its prism quality, NARS Laguna or Soap & Glory Solar Powder make great contours, NARS Copacabana for that dewy highlight (replacing my soon to be bankrupt Jemma Kidd All Over Dewy Glow) and of course NARS Orgasm for that err...uh... flushed glow. 

Step 5 - Eyes:

An eye primer is a must especially for brides who need eye makeup to stay put all day. NARS Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base which is colourless or Benefit creaseless cream shadows available in select colours for a light champagne base (Birthday Suit) up to a smoky base - they are also slightly reflective which adds depth and a little forgiveness if they aren't applied with the accuracy of a pro's hand. 

This is wear it gets tricky. Do you want a simple natural eye or a smoky eye? Whatever your choice, refrain from being too on trend with your big day beauty. The latest blue eye shadow is going to be an eye sore in 10 years - you want to display your pictures with pride not cringe at what was in style. Classic gowns, hair and makeup is the way to go.

A classic eye which is also influenced by the 40s:
*Using a shimmery neutral cream shadow applied from lash line to brow bone. Benefit's Birthday Suit is my #1.
*In the crease apply a medium shade for contour. Try MAC Wedge or Laura Mercier Coffee Ground
*Apply a gel liner at the lash line using a bent liner brush to help with precision
*Use a Red Carpet eye popping trick with MAC Shroom applied to the inner corners of the eyes.
*Curl lashes and apply your fave mascara

If you are keen to do a classic smoky eye with more of a matte texture try Tom Ford Titanium Smoke palette (pictured).

An easy Smoky Eye:
*Base your lid with a cream shadow - I like to use bronze for green or hazel eyes, earthy plum for brown eyes, amber for blue eyes.
*Smudge a dark brown shadow at your lash line top and bottom and into your crease
*Line at your lash line and into your waterline with a smudgeable liner - I prefer to use black and smudge it with your brown shadow but you could opt for dark brown. My go to eyeliners are Tom Ford Beauty or MAC Powerpoint
*Lots of mascara and fake lashes if you can master them. Only use Ardell Lashes. 

Step 6 - Lips

My two favourite lips for weddings: Red lips or nude lips; leave the frosty pink at home for your 80s themed party.

The best reds are Julie Hewett's Noirs pair with Givenchy Rouge lip liner

Nudes lippies: NARS Chelsea Girls, FACEatelier in Cameo, black|Up in #1 pair with Givenchy #12 lip liner or FACEatelier Cameo lip liner

Check back soon as I will do a DIY Bridal hair post soon.

It's a little ridiculous actually. I am, hands-down, the worst packer in the history of travel.

This was essentially my Paris uniform for the past 5 days. I brought other clothes but it was just too damn cold to venture out in them. My saviours were my Holt Renfrew toque and my (now practically vintage) Pink Tartan down vest. 

We stayed in the walking-shoes-only, hilly area called Montmartre - every time I am here I want to watch La Vie en Rose and listen to Edith Piaf. 

This is my friend Sital and I in the two person only elevator at our hotel: Hotel Boronali. We laughed every time we got into that lift. When I had arrived I thought it was a dumbwaiter. Hotel Boronali is in a great location close to the metro and easy to get a taxi. It is a very bare bones , no frills boutique hotel with friendly staff. There is no restaurant on the premises but in the morning you can have coffee and a simple breakfast in the lobby. Rated as a 3 star, it's clean and friendly - don't expect any more than that.

Around the corner from the hotel is an amazing Italian / pizza place: Sal e Pepe. We ate there twice.
And a lovely place nearby for breakfast called Cafe Francoeur.

Yes, bottom right is a bread penis - I spotted the dick in the Marais district. 
As the basket top left suggests, bread in Paris is aplenty - not sure how Paris women are known for being thin. 
The macaroons are an interesting phenomenon - I for one find them pretty to Instagram but am not a huge fan. These chocolate & fois gras ones almost tempted me... I may have to go back just to say that I tried them.
Bottom right, me revisiting the same crepe guy that my sister and I were at last May.

Every holiday I take I visit grocery stores (I like to see what the locals have- I am weird that way) and of course the makeup stores. Last year I discovered black|Up Cosmetics, a hyper-pigmented line for all ethnicities and women of colour - and women who love colour! They will ship internationally so definitely check them out. I'll do a separate post later just on them listing some of my faves.

Of course I paid a visit to Tom Ford Beauty at Galeries Layfayette and I am so glad I did. The guy behind the counter walked us through the collection and when we told him that Sital and I were both makeup artists he made pro-suggestions to what he thinks are great additions to any pro kit. He was so great that in the end we took a recommendation from him for lunch -Chez Pierrot in the 2nd (black|Up Cosmetics flagship store is across the street)

The food and service at Chez Pierrot was absolutely amazing. Our coffees were served with these adorable chocolate granache tasters - my only regret was not topping up service charge included with a little extra tip. Gratuities in Paris are generally included on your bill but like any service industry anywhere, above and beyond should get a little extra. Sorry Pierrot!

 
 
From top left: a romantic cake topper I saw in a chef supply store that had me instantly think of my HB and I in the future. He will have more hair though.
Me sporting my new Dolce & Gabbanas that I have been coveting since the FW 2012/13 campaign. 
A little window dressing at Lanvin that made me think of Target... Think about it, you'll get there.
And finally the Blonde Afro Ambition tour at the Galeries Lafayette.

My second trip to Paris and I still haven't gone up the Eiffel Tour. I have zero patience for lineups. It's a tower with a view I am guessing.

My excuse to come to Paris - not that one needs an excuse to come to Paris... My friend Sarah Slean was performing at Le Zebre de Belleville.

*this was written on my iPad so skip over any major mistakes and check back. When I am at home I will add hyper links so you can click until your hearts content with all the info.  Done!

*PS - a little shout out to Air France whom I flew with for the first time. Their staff were amazing in the air and in the Twitterverse - AAA customer service. I definitely will fly with them again BUT... a big but... the exit row I paid a little extra for for comfort and legroom. OMG - THE WORST seats. Have you flown a budget airline before? You know when the seats are a thin foam cushion on metal rods? Yes. That was 13.5 hours to Paris and 12 back to Singapore. I was miserable to say the least - so was my ass and lower back. I am curious if the norm in economy class on Air France are these budget airline seats or is it just the luck of the exit rows. Anyone?

On the way to Paris there were empty exit row seats that were constantly a revolving seat for many businessmen. I kept waking up to some new guy beside me doing work. I complained - why should I pay extra when clearly these guys were moving from other seats on the plane. Air France reimbursement via a Twitter convo. How fab is that?!

I tried to buy a lounge pass in CDG on the way home to Singapore. I had checked in 5 hours before the flight (don't ask). The one guy at the desk said he needed to ask his supervisor who came over - looked me up and down and said no. She added that the lounge was full. Apparently the colour of my money wasn't the right shade. I do fly business often - I can't say I remember any lounge being that full. I do love and appreciate the airlines that allow for buying lounge passes.

On the flight home - sighing and resetting my pillow and down vest I brought to hopefully make a comfortable seat - I get slammed with a massive cold mid-flight. One flight attendant did notice and offered me some Tylenol and nasal spray - bonus points for that.

If you are looking to book to Paris, the Air France economy class exit row I would give 2 out of 5 stars just because the seatbelt worked - add maybe another .5 for the customer service so 2.5.

I flew an exit row with Singapore Airlines last May to Paris -now THAT was worth rebooking.

Years ago... rephrase... MANY years ago, when I was 14 (I am now *gulp* 41) my grandmother took me to have my colours done. It was the 80s and that was the thing to do then. I remember driving over to some woman's house in the outskirts of Chicago, my grandmother proudly explaining what we are up to. Kind of like the time my mother told me on the way to a Robert Palmer concert that we were seeing Robert Palmer - at the time I pretended I knew who he was... Oh right... the guy in the Duran Duran Power Station video! (After that night I knew who Robert Palmer was - damn sexy for an old guy.)

Actually - looking back I think my grandmother took me  for my colour session because all I really wore then was a lot of black, and... while I was vacationing at my grandparents' house in the suburbs of Chicago, I shaved the sides of my head in the middle of the night - not in a punk-rock way - more in a New Wave / Cyndi Lauper way... She noticed over our morning ritual of Eggos.

Poor Grandma Jean.

One of the colours I was told to avoid in my 'colours session' was black... sigh... I have seen way too MANY beauty blog posts that tell redheads to steer clear of black eyeliner and mascara. This advice makes me cringe.

Moving forward: YES!  Pippi - you can wear black!

photography by Aaron Wong

Here I am in my new profile shot wearing - the horror! - a black top! (by Singaporean designer Sabrina Goh.)

(Red) Devil in a blue (Calvin Klein) dress, photography Aaron Wong (check out his underwater portfolio! AMAZING!)

A colour not only in my colours but a colour I wore on TV once and was told by 'the network' to wear as often as I could - I think Emma Stone received the same request. Obviously more powerful than black but that doesn't mean ditch all your black dresses!

Guess what's on my eyes... BLACK. Of course it's an eyeshadow mash up of other colours and well, yes - I would say that as a redhead wearing only black liner is a little harsh - that doesn't mean avoid it.

My makeup in order of appearance

For both photos:

Luview Whitening Capsule BB Cream under my eyes

FACE atelier Ultra Foundation #2

Soap & GloryTM; Solar PowderTM Bronzo £11.00 at Boots

MAC Cosmetics mineralize blush in Warm Soul

Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base  $24.00 USD at NARS Cosmetics

Eyes in the top photo:

I used Guava on my lid and Cafe Au Lait at my lash line and crease. Simple.

MAC 'In Extreme Dimension Lash' Mascara (Premiering at Nordstrom) $20.00 USD at Nordstrom - BLACK!

On my brows - Veluxe Brow Liner in Strawberry Blonde  $19.50 USD at M·A·C

Sugarbomb Ultra Plush Shimmering Pinky Nude Lip Gloss  $16.00 USD at Benefit

Eyes on the second pic

Whenever you are doing a shoot think of it as a day to night - you start off simple and build on your base makeup - my base never changed.
I added:

From the Laura Mercier palette  I used Coffee Ground (Matte) on my lash line - upper and lower. Buy it as a single eyeshadow for $22.00 USD by at SpaceNK

I then smudged on top of the Coffee Ground Tom Ford Beauty Noir Absolute For Eyes  $35.00 USD at Saks Fifth Avenue - BLACK on a redhead! ;)

For my inner corners I used NARS 'Soft Touch' Shadow Pencil in Hollywoodland $24.00 USD at Nordstrom

I filled in my entire lip with FACE atelier's Lip Pencil in Sand and then applied NARS Lip Lacquer- Chelsea Girls   $24.00 USD at Barneys New York

**You will notice I have no mention of concealer nor powder... that's because I never used them. The Luview works so well brightening up under the eyes that I didn't need it and powder is so over-used making you look old - rarely do I use it on anyone.

I LOVE blue eyeshadow on us redheads but avoid a blue dress and blue eyeshadow unless you're a soccer mom - they love to be all matchy matchy that way. Try NARS Shimmer Eyeshadow in Tropic  $24.00 USD at Barneys New York

Bronze shadows rock on us too especially if you have red hair and blue eyes. Try Eye Color Glimmer - Hypnotic  $23.00 USD by Paula Dorf at DERMSTORE

High Impact purples with redhair and green eyes are killer. Try L'Oreal Infallible Eyeshadow, Endless Sea  $7.95 USD at drugstore.com

More to come! I owe it to the fellow Gingers of the world to set the record straight on makeup.

The end may not be near but the end of 2012 is! Why not go out with a dramatic she-BANG.

model: Sage Dakota
makeup by me

I started with basing Sage's lid with Tom Ford's Noir Absolute (below)- the texture really grips the shadow. The edges are not the easiest to blend out after the shadow is on so make sure you smudge the edges before you apply shadow especially if you want a soft edge.

Don't forget to tighten up the lash line with a fine brush - details Ladies - we don't want floating lashes!

Tom Ford Beauty Noir Absolute For Eyes  $35.00 USD at Neiman Marcus BTW - you could wear this on it's own on your lid dragging it out like a smudged cat's eye which will give you a grungy Rockstar look or simply use it as a liner.

Tom Ford Beauty Eye Color Quad, Crushed Amethyst  $75.00 USD at Neiman Marcus

1. I applied the highlighter (top left from the quad) to the inner corner of the eye
2. The matte colour (bottom right) I applied into the crease and blended up to the brow bone
3. The brighter amethyst (bottom left) I applied onto the lower lash line and swept across the lid

Eye Brows in Brunette  $15.00 USD at M·A·C was used for a slight fill in.

L'Oreal Double Extend Lash Extension Effect Mascara $9.99 USD at Ulta - Sage has killer lashes so I didn't use the primer on her.

Because everybody and their daughter wants to contour these days... Sage's base was a combination of FACEatelier Ultra Foundation in 0+, 2 and 4.

Powder Blush / Pro Palette Refill Pan  $17.00 USD at M·A·C

I used MAC Cosmetics Azalea blush (pictured) and then blended the crap out of it - then blended some more... and then some more... the colour is really strong for pale skin but I love it!

Lip Lacquer  $24.00 USD by NARS Cosmetics in Chelsea Girls to finish off the look. I am LOVING this lip pot and just may have to snag some other colours. The texture goes on smooth but not sheer.

If the blush is a little too 80s for you, choose a softer colour or skip blush altogether.

This was the back of Sage's hair - I'll tell you how to do this chic deconstructed updo soon!

[Sage will be off to college soon and #stuffZoiesays is a little too young for these beauty blog posts of mine...I'll have to stockpile a bunch of posts with Sage or recruit more volunteers!]