Eye brightener vs concealer causes confusion in many.
Here's the thing:
* If you look a wee bit tired, not full of dark circles, then an eye brightener may be all you need.
* If you have dark circles, sunken eye sockets, scars, acne etc... then you may need concealer or possibly both
Conceal first then foundation? Only if you're doing makeup in the 80s or going on stage.
Generally when you conceal first you are putting on too much makeup. Foundation formulas are so good now with many having a blurring effect to soften fine lines and cover imperfections, so the modern approach to concealer is to apply after your foundation, but only if you need it. Some chose concealer for touch-ups leaving the skin free of foundation. That's fine too.
Speaking of 80s; sculpting and highlighting a la the Kardashians is not a new technique. It's what us makeup artists learn - of course it's done well on them, but they aren't doing it themselves, and this flawless sculpted look is super high maintenance makeup. Sure, you can learn to DIY but bear in mind, it translates better on film than in real life so if you are starring on a (sur)reality show being followed around with LED lights and wind machines, then why not; sculpt and highlight away.
Of course a less cake-face way of doing it that beautifully translates to reality is to use a bronzer, blush and highlighter which is subtle but with enough shaping for selfies and buying groceries.
Concealers. Every company makes one and with my career spanning 23 years and still counting, I finally find a concealer that I like love.
Benefit Fakeup Concealer $24.00 by Benefit at Bloomingdale's
This hydrating crease-control concealer with Vitamin E and apple seed extract-hides dark circles and diffuses fine lines for a silky smooth, ultra-natural look. Yes, yes and YES! I love the coverage. It lasts as long as I need it too. You can reapply in the day without it creasing or caking. The downfall, it's available in only three shades which aren't fully universal.
Benefit Oh La Lift Eye Brightener $22.00 USD at Macy's
An instant under-eye brightening boost. One of the most sensitive areas to stress: your eyes. Relief is in sight with Ooh La Lift-a formula of lightening botanicals and reflecting pigments that de-puff and firm the eye area. The great news is that it can be worn throughout the day and over makeup.
So, yea, what they said. I also like it around the laugh-line area to brighten and diffuse the deepening signs of aging. Laugh-line and funny bones; not so humourous.
Saint Laurent Touche Eclat $40.00 USD at Barneys New York
Light, luminosity, radiance. The award winning, must-have, take anywhere instant highlighter that banishes shadows, erases signs of fatigue and leaves your skin looking radiant. Touche Eclat is ideal at any time of the day over bare skin, under or over foundation, creme or powder. Suitable for all skin types.
See! Not once did they use the word concealer in their description. This not a concealer wand is handy though. Everything it is you can pretty much get the same with the aforementioned - so just pick one. I have both but then again - it's my j-o-b.
Master corrector $37.00 USD at Giorgio Armani
Corrective concealer in four color-balancing shades designed to target specific complexion concerns. Exclusive micro-fil technology allows for targeted correction, visibly concealing imperfections while light-reflecting pearls impart a halo of light imparting a seamless, flawless facial canvas. Corrective concealer shades include:
- 1. pink: counteracts sallow, dull skin and effectively corrects yellow and olive pigmentation.
- 2. orange: targets olive or darker skin tones to conceal under-eye circles, freckles, dark spots and hyper-pigmentation.
Here's the thing with the Master Corrector - if you have dark panda eyes - get this. Apply it under your foundation. Mircle in a tube. Don't thank me, just send flowers.
Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage $32.00 USD at Neiman Marcus
Secret Camouflage contains a unique two-shade system, one to match the skin's depth of color and one to match the skin's undertone, making it possible for every woman to custom-blend her own perfect shade. The high level of pigment requires very little product to achieve perfect coverage.
- After applying foundation, pick up the product with the Secret Camouflage Brush by dragging across both pans, saturating both sides of the brush.
- Using the back of your hand as a palette, use the brush to warm and mix the two colors until you find the shade that matches your skin tone. Secret Camouflage is a true makeup artist's formula, so the more you work with the product the more easily you will be able to achieve perfect results.
- Using feather-light strokes, apply Secret Camouflage to the darkened areas of the face: blemishes, shadows, scars, capillaries, the area around the nose, shadows under the bottom lip, and any imperfections that the foundation does not cover.
*Notice that final sentence: "any imperfections that the foundation does not cover" What I said above. Now, LM does mention using this under the eyes. I personally find this product way too drying and anyone that applies it I can see the creasing. In my opinion, it's better used for covering acne scars and mountainous oily zits because of it's dry texture.
LAURA MERCIER Secret Brightening Powder
$24.00 by Laura Mercier USD at SpaceNK
I have never been a powder fan. OK, maybe when I was in high school; but this 80s New Waver used so much CoverGirl compact powder that my face cracked and bled one night. True story. Horrified with what powder did to my skin, I've stopped using it and highly encourage others to take a pass as well.
But.... This (insert arrow pointing up). Shared with me via Dee Daly (who was once one of my assistants many moons ago, and now that girl's portfolio rocks like the rockstar that she is)
Dark shadows are a thing of the past when you use this weightless powder. The micronized pigments brightens and doesn't settle into fine lines or pores. Do NOT apply it all over your face but I do like it on the highlight points as well. They say that it's formulated for all skin types but it will lighten on darker skin a little too much so be careful. Also - skin types doesn't say skin tone to me. Type would be oily, dry, sensitive. Tone is the darkness/lightness and cool/warm. Watch for your product's beauty wording so you don't get suckered in.
Transparent Finish Powder - Clear $28.00 by Alison Raffaele at DERMSTORE
A lightweight finishing powder for setting makeup and controlling shine. Alison Raffaele Transparent Finish Powder - Clear
See that word 'Clear' ? Yes. It is. Faz and I prove it here on xovain It's finishing which means the final step before you move on to colour. However, if you use a cream blush I would apply that under your foundation or just before your setting powder. I'll get to that and more in the next beauty roundup.
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Primers and Foundations